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On foot

History

Segesta (Ἔγεστα) was one of the major cities of the Elymians, one of the three indigenous peoples of Sicily. The other major cities of the Elymians were Eryx and Entella. It is located in the northwestern part of Sicily in Italy, near the modern commune of Calatafimi-Segesta in the province of Trapani. The Hellenization of Segesta happened very early and had a profound effect on its people.

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Photo of Segesta, by Luca on Pixabay

The origin and foundation of Segesta are extremely obscure. The tradition current among the Greeks and adopted by Thucydides ascribed its foundation to a band of Trojan settlers, fugitives from the destruction of their city; and this tradition was readily welcomed by the Romans, who in consequence claimed a kindred origin with the Segestans. Thucydides seems to have considered the Elymians (Elymi), a barbarian tribe in the neighborhood of Eryx and Segesta, as descended from the Trojans in question; but another account represents the Elymi as a distinct people, already existing in this part of Sicily when the Trojans arrived there and founded the two cities. A different story seems also to have been current, according to which Segesta owed its origin to a band of Phocians, who had been among the followers of Philoctetes; and, as usual, later writers sought to reconcile the two accounts. 

 

Another version of the Trojan story related to Virgil's Aeneid, which would seem to have been adopted by the inhabitants themselves, ascribed the foundation of the city jointly by the territorial king Egestus or Aegestus (the Acestes of Virgil), who was said to be the offspring of a Dardanian damsel named Segesta by the river god Crinisus, and by those of Aeneas' folk who wished to remain behind with Acestes to found the city of Acesta.

The city was occupied by a people distinct from the Sicanians, the native race of this part of Sicily, and on the other that it was not a Greek colony. Thucydides, in enumerating the allies of the Athenians at the time of the Peloponnesian War, distinctly calls the Segestans barbarians. At the same time, they appear to have been, from a very early period, in close connection with the Greek cities of Sicily, and entering into relations both of hostility and alliance with the Hellenic states, wholly different from the other barbarians on the island. The early influence of Greek civilization is shown also by their coins, which are inscribed with Greek characters, and bear the unquestionable impress of Greek art.

The first historical notice of the Segestans transmitted to us represents them as already engaged (as early as 580 BC) in hostilities with Selinus (modern Selinunte), which would appear to prove that both cities had already extended their territories so far as to come into contact with each other.

Attractions

The ruins of the city are located on the top of Monte Bàrbaro at 305 m above sea level. The city was protected by steep slopes on several sides and by walls on the more gentle slope towards the temple. 

The hilltop offers a view over the valley towards the Gulf of Castellamare. The city controlled several major roads between the coast to the north and the hinterland. Very little is known about the city plan. Aerial photography indicates a regular city plan, built in part on terraces to overcome the natural sloping terrain. The current remains might be from the reconstruction after the destruction of the city by Agathocles.

Current archaeological work indicates that the site was reoccupied by a Muslim community in the Norman period. Excavations have unearthed a Muslim necropolis and a mosque from the 12th century next to a Norman castle. Evidence suggests that the mosque was destroyed after the arrival of a new Christian overlord at the beginning of the 13th century. The city appears to have been finally abandoned by the second half of the 13th century.

Tempio Dorico di Segesta

On a hill just outside the site of the ancient city of Segesta lies an unusually well-preserved Doric temple. Some think it to have been built in the 420s BC by an Athenian architect, despite the city not having any Greek population. The prevailing view is that it was built by the indigenous Elymians. The temple has six by fourteen columns on a base measuring 21 by 56 metres, on a platform three steps high. Several elements suggest that the temple was never finished. The columns have not been fluted as they normally would have been in a Doric temple, and there are still bosses present in the blocks of the base (used for lifting the blocks into place but then normally removed). The temple also lacks a cella, any ornamentation, altar, or deity dedication, and was never roofed over. The temple was never completed due to the war between Segesta and Selinunte. It managed to escape destruction by the Carthaginians in the late 5th century.

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Photo of the Doric Temple of Segesta, by Gianni on Pixabay

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Photo of the Doric Temple of Segesta, by Petr Slováček on Unsplash

Teatro Greco di Segesta

At the end of the third century BC, the inhabitants of Segesta built their theater on the highest peak of Monte Barbaro, on a site, behind the agora, which was already the seat of a place of worship many centuries earlier.

Oriented to the north, towards the Gulf of Castellammare, the theater of Segesta takes advantage of the splendid panorama of the sea and the hills as far as the eye can see.

The theater was built according to the dictates of Greek-Hellenistic architecture, with blocks of local limestone. It differs from the typical structure of Greek theaters because the auditorium does not rest directly on the rock but was purposely built and is supported by retaining walls. It consists of two entrances, slightly offset from the main axis of the building and can hold about 5000 people.

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Photo of the Greek Theater, by Petr Slováček on Unsplash

Terme Segestane

In addition to the archaeological park, another interesting experience in Segesta is the thermal one. In fact, nearby there are the Terme Segestane, hydrothermal springs that are located in Sicily in the municipality of Castellammare del Golfo.

The waters of the thermal baths are of the chlorine-sulphate-alkaline-earthy type. These waters are suitable for use for baths and inhalations for therapeutic purposes; muds are useful in treating rheumatism, arthritis, arthrosis, sciatica, uricemia, gout, and skin diseases.

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Photo of the Terme Segestane, by Davide Mauro on Wikipedia

Food

Here's a list of places where to eat in Segesta

  • Posto di Ristoro Segesta is the only bar inside the archaeological site, a good choice for a snack and to find refreshment during the visit to the park;

  • Ristorante Mediterraneo "Al Capolinea" Segesta is a restaurant where you can eat traditional Sicilian cuisine, from pasta to pizza;

  • La Manna di Segesta is a restaurant where you can eat traditional and rustic dishes;

  • L'Agorà di Segesta is an elegant reception room, located on a hill with a breathtaking view of the archaeological park.

Tips

Parking

Once you arrive in Segesta, the first thing to do is find parking. The archaeological site has a large car park for visitors. Below is the button to reach the Segesta Parking Archeodromo parking page. Below, is the location on the map.

Events & Tickets

It is possible to visit Segesta and its ruins and more. In fact, in Segesta, numerous events are organized, especially in the summer. In the summer, the Segesta theater hosts a program of cultural events, including monologues, theatrical performances, Greek tragedies, and so on. In order not to miss all the updates, there is a website dedicated to Segesta Park.

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